A Beautiful Lawn

Easy to Follow Guide for Planting a Landscape Tree

When to Plant

Two things are important to freshly planted trees - moderate temperatures and rainfall. Ideally, any plant will have time to acclimate and to establish roots in their new enviroment before being exposed to any extreme weather. For those reasons, the best times to plant a tree are very early in spring (before leaves start to form) or towards the middle of the fall (after leaves have stopped growing). At these times, most of the energy of the tree will be spent on root growth. This is not to say that these are the only time to plant - just when the conditions are the best to do so. Locally (Southern Indiana) and with proper care, we may start planting in early March and continue until late November. In areas farther south with milder winters, planting may be done at any time of year.

Dig the hole shallow and wide - The biggest mistake people generally make when planting is digging the hole too narrow and too deep. the hole should not be deeper then the root ball of the tree being planted, but it should be 2-3 times as wide as the current root structure of the tree. A couple of inches of sand mixed into the bottom of the hole will help with drainage. In clay soils, it is important to score the sides and bottom of the hole. If this step is not done, you may just be creating a ‘bowl’ that will hold water and your tree will slowly rot from the trapped moisture.

Remove the tree from its container - If you are planting a B&B (ball & burlap) tree or a container tree, you should be careful to transport it from the bottom and not to pick it up by the trunk. A potted tree should be put on its side to remove the container. Try to gently loosen and gently spread roots before planting. If the roots are growing in circles at the botom of the plant, it may be necessary to make some cuts at the bottom of the rootball in order to spread the roots prior to planting. If the roots are left bound up, they will not expand and grow. The tree will  not get any larger and will eventually die. B&B trees with natural burlap should have the burlap loosened and pulled away from at least the top half of the root ball (natural burlap repels water). If the wrapping is plastic or you are not sure, it should be removed entirely.

Plant tree at the correct height - the spot where the tree roots start to expand away from the trunk of the tree is called the trunk flare. The trunk flare should be visible when the tree is planted. It is better to plant the tree a little high as opposed to a little low - there will be settling over time.

Back fill around the roots -  Amending the soil (adding compost/peatmoss/topsoil) before it is put back in is fine, but do not overdo it. You want to pack the soil back in the hole just firmly enough to hold the tree in place. Getting oxygen to the roots will go a long way in helping the tree establish - be weary of over compacting the soil around the base of the tree. There will be soil left over when you are done.

Staking - Some larger or top heavy trees may need to be staked after they are planted. Trees may also be staked where wind is an issue. Two stakes on opposite sides of a tree are usually enough.  Stakes should be driven into the ground outside the area that was dug up to plant the tree. Use wire looped (once only) around the tree and attached to the stake. A short section of hose - cut and used as a ‘sleeve’ for the wire - should be placed between the wire and the tree. This prevents the wire from cuting into the bark of the tree and causing damage. Tension on the wire should be firm but not tight. Staking the tree prevents the rootball from shifting and tearing the newly established roots as they grow. Common mistakes to avoid: stakes too close to the tree, over-tightening the wires and not protecting the tree bark from the wire.

Mulch -  A 2-inch layer of mulch around tree will help keep moisture from escaping. Take care to leave a 1- to 2-inch ring around the base of the tree that does not have any mulch. A short dam around the outside edge of the mulch will help collect rain water and direct it to where it is needed.
   

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How & When to Prune a Crape Myrtle

Crape Myrtle is an extremely suitable tree used in most landscapes to beautify the garden. Its botanical name is Lagerstroemia indica, this is a tree which is drought tolerant and can thrive where there is heat and humidity. Crape Myrtle has a lovely green flora in the spring and also has a very fascinating outline when it sheds it leaves during winter with its reddish peeling bark.

Crape Myrtle has outstanding flowers that really beautify the tree during the summer. It should be strategically planted in the landscape to create that breathtaking beauty. Though this tree is planted by various people in their yards, not all of them know how to go about the pruning process.

Correct pruning helps the tree to produce flowers earlier than the ones which have not been pruned. Pruning landscape Crape Myrtle trees involves the removal of unwanted branches to enhance the growth of new ones, which then sprout into new blooms. Other parts of the landscape tree which are removed, are the suckers which come from the base of the tree, dead branches, and all those branches growing in awkward areas and distracting the growth of the tree.

Before pruning this magnificent tree, it’s good to have an objective as to why this tree is being pruned. One of the most outstanding reasons why this landscape Crape Myrtle is pruned is to maintain well spaced main branches, which have thick barks and also to reduce the center part of the tree to enable sunlight and air to penetrate through without any hindrances.

When to prune will vary by location. If for example, one lives in warmer climates, it’s advisable to prune the Crape Myrtle tree a bit earlier at around late winter and early spring. This is because if the pruning is done in the middle of winter the new blooms may sprout and then freeze and die. On the other hand if one live in a cold climate where there is a lot of freezing, the tree should be pruned during late spring and early summer in order to detect he damages caused by the freezing winter temperatures. When appropriate pruning is practiced when this landscape tree is young there will be very minimal maintenance when the tree matures.

Deadheading the Crape myrtle is a very important process which is mostly ignored. This process includes pruning of dead old, and withered flowers from a plant as it blooms. Home owners are encouraged to deadhead  the crape myrtle tree once the flowers begin to fade to ensure that they bloom for a second time. Deadheading can be done by the use of the forefinger and thumb. However, to carry out the task professionally its recommended to use a pair of clean scissors which is sharp enough not to leave any stubs.

The home owner is required to be equipped with all the information on when and which tools to use before, carrying out the actual pruning. The first step to do is to look at the main trunks from the ground up wards and remove any suckers near the base of the tree of those which are germinating from the exposed roots of the tree. After this is done, it’s also very important to trim any growth which might be growing on the many trunks which is at least 4 feet in size. Another part of the landscape tree which needs to be taken care of is the canopy.

When the tree is growing it spreads up and forms a canopy at the top. This consists of dead branches as well as branches which are growing towards the center of the tree. It’s advisable to always prune the branches without leaving any stubs and also clear the branches which cross one another. Lastly if, the home owner wants to have a thick canopy with two times growth and many blooms, he is required to prune the stems about 6” to 12” from the main branch, if this is done correctly the stem should regenerate two new stems from the old stem, and this is a sure way of ensuring that many flowers are produced and also that the tree has a thick canopy.

Lawn Overseeding

      Want to have a thicker greener and more lush lawn? There are many ways to help your cause. Proper watering, fertilizing, weed control and  lawn aeration are all important steps in maintaining a beautiful lawn. Overseeding is also a  valuable step, but one that is often overlooked. If you can spread the blades of the grass and see soil, your lawn could benefit from overseeding.

 

Why overseed? 

   After about three years the reproductive rate of grass slows down & it eventually reaches a point where it cannot keep up with the need for new plants. Most of the cooler season grasses in our area (doesn't include zoysia & bermuda) grow in bunches. when these bunches start to die out space is left  for weeds to thrive.

   Newer cultivars of grasses are engineered better. K 31 was a popular variety of fescue for quite some time.however it is a wider bladed grass that doesn't blend well with other types of turf. It is also prone to disease when fertilized on a regular basis. Newer versions of tall turf fescues are more drought tolerant and  less susceptible to disease. They are also thinner bladed, blend better with other grass types and have a more robust green color.

  Mixing different types of grasses that have different growing seasons can make a lawn look vibrant most of the year. Overseeding a bermuda grass  lawn with a perennial rye can keep a lawn green in the cooler months when the bermuda has gone dormant.

When to do it

   Late summer through early fall is the best time to overseed in our area.Early Spring works also.  The warm soil (necessary for germination), the abundant sunshine & cooler air (both good for growth) make for ideal conditions to overseed.

How to do it 

  Start by mowing the lawn. Cut it shorter than normal. This will allow the new seed more sunlight. Bagging the clippings is also helpful. The nect step is to rake the area you plan to overseed. This removes debris and makes it easier for seed to soil contact. The next step is to spread the seed.Drop spreaders work well for smaller areas because they are more precise (keeps stray seed out of those landscape beds).  Broadcast spreaders work well for larger areas.  Split the seed and spread it - half while walking one direction and half wile walking in the opposite direction. This will make for a more even distribution of the seed. There are many different types and blends of grass seed, so make sure to check the label for application rates.

Things that improve your rate of success

- use a granular slow release starter fertilizer in conjunction with the seeding

- aerate the lawn first. Core aerators can be found at most rental places

- remove thatch. A mechanical dethatcher will do a better job than raking by hand.

- top dress a thin layer of compost or topsoil (1/4 " at the most) will help hold in   moisture.

THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP

 Water twice a day until the seed germinates(may take 3 weeks) & continue to water after that. You want to keep the seeds moist all the time  but not water to the point where they wash away. Ryegrass will usually start in 4-6 days. Fescues 7- 10 days. Bluegrass can take 2 -3 weeks. Forgetting to water for just 1 or 2 days can decrease the germination rate by 20% to 30%. It can take a full month for new grass to establish well and it needs to be watered while this occurs.

 

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Weed Control - Crabgrass

Crabgrass is a warm-season annual that primarily reproduces by  seed and is one of the more troublesome lawn weeds to deal with. A single plant can produce thousands of seeds. This seed proliferation makes it difficult to rid a lawn of it.  

    Crabgrass starts to grow in the spring . New plants can continue to germinate until the early fall.  From mid-summer to fall, crabgrass produces seed. The crabgrass plants die out in the mid to late fall, leaving lots of seeds to start the cycle again in the spring. So how do you get rid of it? Well timed preemergent herbicides are  the most effective way to eradicate this difficult weed.

   Preemergent herbicides come in either liquid or granular form and are designed to kill seedlings before they emerge. Timing is important in order for them to be successful. Apply a preemergent  before germination, but not too far ahead ( a little early is better than late). For crabgrass  this is when the soil temperature reaches about 55-60 degrees F. Within a week or so of theses temperatures, crabgrass plants start to grow.

   Two options for for crabgrass control are Tupersan (siduron) and Dimension (dithiopyr). Dimension is safe to use on most bluegrass ryegrass and tall fescue. Check label first for fine fescues. Tupersan is also safe for similar grasses. Both are good preemergent herbicides and both have some effectiveness as a postemergents. Dimension controls a wider variety of weeds, but Tupersan  may be a better pick for newly seeded lawns.

•  Lawns should be watered after the application of a preemergent herbicide.

•   While inexpensive weed & feed products may contain preemergents, they are usually in smaller amounts and not very effective

•  Always follow  directions on the label. Apply the recommended amount for the area that you have. Spaced out treatments are much more effective than  using too much at once.

•  If you plan on aerating or dethatching a lawn in the spring, do it before treating for crabgrass.

• Mow taller - weeds are much more likely to grow in places where grass is shorter and thinner than in places with taller denser grass.

• Overseed thin/bare spots in the fall. The best weed prevention is a thick stand of grass. It leaves no space for the weeds to grow.

• Pull larger crabgrass plants by hand - Most  postemergent herbicides are ineffective against larger plants.

Tips for Overseeding a Lawn

Want to have a thicker greener and more lush lawn? There are many ways to help your cause. Proper watering, fertilizing, weed control and  lawn aeration are all important steps in maintaining a beautiful lawn. Overseeding is also a  valuable step, but one that is often overlooked. If you can spread the blades of the grass and see soil, your lawn could benefit from overseeding.

 Why overseed? 

   After about three years the reproductive rate of grass slows down & it eventually reaches a point where it cannot keep up with the need for new plants. Most of the cooler season grasses in our area (doesn't include zoysia & bermuda) grow in bunches. when these bunches start to die out space is left  for weeds to thrive.

   Newer cultivars of grasses are engineered better. K 31 was a popular variety of fescue for quite some time.however it is a wider bladed grass that doesn't blend well with other types of turf. It is also prone to disease when fertilized on a regular basis. Newer versions of tall turf fescues are more drought tolerant and  less susceptible to disease. They are also thinner bladed, blend better with other grass types and have a more robust green color.

  Mixing different types of grasses that have different growing seasons can make a lawn look vibrant most of the year. Overseeding a bermuda grass  lawn with a perennial rye can keep a lawn green in the cooler months when the bermuda has gone dormant.

When to do it

   Late summer through early fall is the best time to overseed in our area. The warm soil (necessary for germination), the abundant sunshine & cooler air (both good for growth) make for ideal conditions to overseed.

How to do it 

  Start by mowing the lawn. Cut it shorter than normal. This will allow the new seed more sunlight. Bagging the clippings is also helpful. The nect step is to rake the area you plan to overseed. This removes debris and makes it easier for seed to soil contact. The next step is to spread the seed.Drop spreaders work well for smaller areas because they are more precise (keeps stray seed out of those landscape beds).  Broadcast spreaders work well for larger areas.  Split the seed and spread it - half while walking one direction and half wile walking in the opposite direction. This will make for a more even distribution of the seed. There are many different types and blends of grass seed, so make sure to check the label for application rates.

Things that improve your rate of success

- use a granular slow release starter fertilizer in conjunction with the seeding

- aerate the lawn first. Core aerators can be found at most rental places

- remove thatch. A mechanical dethatcher will do a better job than raking by hand.

- top dress a thin layer of compost or topsoil (1/4 " at the most) will help hold in                 moisture.

THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP

 Water twice a day until the seed germinates(may take 3 weeks) & continue to water after that. You want to keep the seeds moist all the time  but not water to the point where they wash away. Ryegrass will usually start in 4-6 days. Fescues 7- 10 days. Bluegrass can take 2 -3 weeks. Forgetting to water for just 1 or 2 days can decrease the germination rate by 20% to 30%. It can take a full month for new grass to establish well and it needs to be watered while this occurs.

 

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Fine Fescue and Tall Fescue

Comparing Fine and Tall Fescue Grass Seed Varieties

Grass is grass right? Not so. If you live in the United States and are considering a major overhaul to your property, it is vital you understand the differences between tall fescue and fine fescue grass varieties. By understanding the advantages and disadvantages to each type, you can make an informed decision about what seed variety will work best in your particular area. The time spent in research will maximize all that hard work and money with years of beautiful green grass to enjoy with your family.Common traits of fescue grasses Fescue grasses are considered cool season grasses, designed to work in the majority of the United States and into Canada. Both types of fescue grass are built with three major advantages; they are tolerant of the shade, able to withstand long periods without rain, and stay green all year. They also need less fertilizer due to a deep root system. The fescue grasses solve the problem that other grass varieties have with areas of significant temperature fluctuation; the warm season grasses cannot handle the cold winters, and the cool season grasses cannot handle the hot summer. The fescue grasses are able to handle the wide range of temperatures. Because of this, many seed mixtures contain fescue grasses as well.What are the differences between the two types? Tall fescue grass Tall fescue grass is a broad-leaved bunching grass that works well for lawns and sports fields. Despite the word "tall" in its name, this grass when left un-mowed will not grow taller than 20". The newer varieties can be used for pastures with livestock. If the lawn is subject to extreme drought or insect damage, you can over seed a tall fescue grass in the fall to help prepare the lawn for the next warm season. This grass is built to withstand a lot of traffic, thus making it a good choice for large areas that get a lot of activity. The tall fescue grass performs a bit better in the heat than the fine fescue variety. Fine fescue grass This variety excels in the shade. It will continue to grow rapidly despite the lack of sun. Keep in mind that if fine fescue is planted in full sunlight, it will slow down the growing process. If you have long periods of heat, this grass will have to be watered more frequently. On the flip side, it the preferred grass seed for the colder climates. Fine fescue grass seed is usually added to seed mixtures to help compliment the other variety. It is a non-aggressive, drought resistant, low maintenance grass that germinates in 14 days. There are several sub-species of fine fescue grass bred for more particular adaptations. Sub-species of fine fescue grass Creeping red fescue Like its name implies, the creeping fescue creeps along the ground. This variety is especially hardy in the cold and shaded areas and has a red tint at the base of the leaf. Creeping fescue is also used for areas that are left un-mowed, such as meadow slopes and roadside locations. Chewings fescue This grass variety is used primarily to round out seed mixtures. The seed does well in sandy soils and can be mown quite low. The disadvantage to chewings is that it is not as tolerant to wear and tear as other varieties. Hard fescue Hard fescue is in fact one of the "hardiest" varieties of fescue grass. It can be grown at high elevations and performs well in droughts, the cold, and shaded areas. The grass has a pretty blue-green color that stays green for longer than other types. It cannot be mown too low and its growing habits mimic a lot of tall fescue types. Which one is right for you? Once you have a better understanding of the different types of fescue grasses, take down some notes about the particular area you are seeding. Watch the sun path, look up the average high and low temperatures of the year, and analyze the amount of foot traffic and frequency of mowing. Once you have that settled, you will be able to choose the type of fescue grass that works best for your needs.

Summer Flowering Shrubs (2/2)

For your landscape to remain beautiful throughout the seasons, you need to have something of interest in each season. Therefore, the first step in a do-it-yourself landscaping project is for you to conduct a research. The intention is to have some flowering trees during summer and spring, fall foliage over the autumn season and those that are favorable for winter. You have to choose shrubs that are drought tolerant so that as you plant them in spring, they will not succumb to the summer heat. As for flowers, consider the light and soil necessities before buying any prospective flowers for your lawn. It is very important to match the flower types to their space for beauty and consistency. There are quite a number of summer flowering shrubs that are easy to grow and maintain thus producing a very brilliant bloom even in the face of the glaring summer heat. These include the following;

Potentilla – This is another common and very easy shrub to grow. Blooming starts in late spring and lingers through the autumn season. The flowers are very beautiful and come in shades of orange, cheery yellow, red, orange and white. They almost appear like single roses and normally attract lots of butterflies. The shrub has divided foliage that is very attractive. Well drained soil and full sun are ideal conditions for the shrub.

Reblooming Hydrangea – This is another of the hydrangeas that is just amazing. It can also be referred to as the endless summer shrub. It bears flowers upon fresh growth. There is therefore a lot of bloom that runs across the summer season. The shrub does well in a partly shady environment with soil that is very well drained.

Rock Rose – These are very drought tolerant shrubs making them extremely easy to grow and maintain all through the summer season. They are very fine-looking and produce bright flowers that are rose-like all through the summer season. The shrub blooms in a wide array of colors right from pink and purple to lavender and white. Their full height is up to five feet tall. They really augment well with other shrubs and add value to your landscaping all together.

Rose of Sharon – This is a very reliable shrub in terms of providing many colors throughout summer. The shrub produces blooms that are tropical-looking with shades of lavender-blue, pink and white. When you go to shop for the shrub, be keen to select the sterile varieties. These are preferable because they do not fill the yard with myriad weedy seedlings.

Planting these summer flowering shrubs will ensure that there is bloom in your yard throughout the summer season despite the prevailing heat.

 

Summer Flowering Shrubs (1/2)

Summer Flowering Shrubs For your landscape to remain beautiful throughout the seasons, you need to have something of interest in each season. Therefore, the first step in a do-it-yourself landscaping project is for you to conduct a research. The intention is to have some flowering trees during summer and spring, fall foliage over the autumn season and those that are favorable for winter. You have to choose shrubs that are drought tolerant so that as you plant them in spring, they will not succumb to the summer heat. As for flowers, consider the light and soil necessities before buying any prospective flowers for your lawn. It is very important to match the flower types to their space for beauty and consistency. There are quite a number of summer flowering shrubs that are easy to grow and maintain thus producing a very brilliant bloom even in the face of the glaring summer heat. These include the following;

Butterfly Bush – This shrub can be equated to the lilac given their similarity in colors that is purple, pink, blue, lavender and white. The shrub has a very wonderful fragrance. Their bloom season is much longer than that of lilacs. They can go all the way from summer to autumn. The bloom is especially prolonged if you remove the older flower clusters as soon as they start fading. to 4'wide & 6' tall, some larger.

Carolina allspice – This shrub produces very beautiful flowers with a deep red color. The flowers emit a spicy fragrance which can be enjoyed across the yard. This is a low-care plant that is naturally very tough. It can grow very well in a full sun condition or in partial shade. It requires soil that is well drained. can get rather large, up to 5 feet wide & 10 feet tall

Hydrangea paniculata – Among the hydrangeas, this species is the easiest to grow. As summer advances into autumn, the shrub will normally produce some feathery bunches of white flowers. The flowers then fade to pink and green shades. Whatever the spot, these rugged shrubs will fit perfectly. They do well in partial shade or full sun with soil that is very well drained. Hydrangeas are just phenomenal when it comes to landscaping. 6to 8' tall & wide is average

Oleander – This is a sub-tropical shrub that is very easy to care for. The shrub bears flowers during summer and these appear in shades of red, pink, lilac, white and yellow. This shrub is quite fail-safe such that you will commonly find it grown along highway sides in areas endowed with warm weather. It is however important to take note that this plant is quite poisonous. It grows well in full sun and well drained soil conditions.

Planting these summer flowering shrubs will ensure that there is bloom in your yard throughout the summer season despite the prevailing heat.

Some Suggestions for Choosing a Lawn Mowing Service

Want your lawn to look great but don't have the time to do it yourself?  Consider hiring a lawn company to do it for you. Choosing a lawn care business that will provide many different types of work  (mowing, aerating, seeding, fertilizing, landscaping, tree & shrub trimming and many others) is an option. Many people simply want to hire a company to mow the lawn. If that is your goal here are a few things to consider in order to ask the right questions when choosing a lawn mowing service.

Frequency  - How often do you want the lawn mowed? some companies only offer weekly mowing packages, but others offer mowing every 9/10 days or every other week as an option. It is also a good idea to ask what the policy is when the weather is dry and to ask how late into the year the company generally mows.

Pricing -  How much are you going to be charged & how are you being charged? It may vary - It could be a monthly charge for "x" months or it could be charged "per cut". Once you are quoted a price find out what the billing options are. Some may offer a discount for email billing. Most should offer some sort of a discount for seasonal prepayment. Do not be afraid to make a counter offer - it doesn't hurt to ask for a better price.

What does the service entail? - make  fair comparisons - a company way offer a better price simply by providing a lower level of service. Do you want the grass bagged? Is trimming included? Edging? Blowing off walks, patios, drives & decks? Weeds in walkways & driveways taken care of? Is the curb kept clean? Decide what level of service that you expect  and make sure that it is included ion the quotes that you get.

Customer Service  - Did someone answer when you called for a quote or did you have to leave a message? How long did it take for someone to get back to you? How long did it take for someone to come by & give you an estimate? Can you contact the lawn service by email? by text? Smart phones make it easy - an hour or so should be plenty of time to get a response or a callback. How you are treated before you are a customer may say a lot about how you would be treated as a customer.

Research  - There are many places online to find more information on a  service business (ratings,services offered , how long in business). The Better Business Bureau (example) is one. Angie's List is another. Take advantage of free resources that are available.

Insurance - Any service provider that you hire to do work on you property should be insured. Most companies will be able to show  one page certificate of insurance (showing what they are covered for) when providing an estimate.

Other considerations  - Are the employees uniformed? Is the company truck lettered & clean? People that take better care of what is theirs may take better care of what is yours. Do they use commercial equipment? A lawn mower from a box store will work well for mowing 1or 2 yards a week, but may not be reliable enough to do 20 or 30.  A person that has invested in the right equipment may be a factor in showing reliability.

 

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Roundup or Generic Glyphosate? - Weed Control Options

Glyphosate  is the active ingredient in many  non-selective weed killers (herbicides)  that are commonly used in residential settings. Selective herbicides kill  specific plants or families of plants and leave other vegetation unharmed. Non selective means that it kills most of the greenery  that it comes in contact with.

Roundup was the first glyphosate based herbicide. It was first introduced in the mid-seventies -  developed and patented by a company named Monsanto. For a very long period of time it was the only real option available.  The original patent expired around 2000 and there are now several more cost effective options of glyphosate herbicides  to choose from.

 Farm supply stores (Tractor Supply & Rural King locally - there are others) are good places to find alternatives to Roundup. Drexel Imitator Plus, Pronto, Ranger Pro, and Gly Pho-Sel are some common examples. When shopping for alternatives, look for items with a 41% active ingredient (glyphosate). A similar product may very well be 30-70% cheaper than Roundup.

 

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Warm Season Ornamental Landscape Grasses (2/2)

Ornamental grasses are a nice low maintenance addition to almost any landscape. They are  easy to care for as they tend to be relatively disease and pest free. Most varieties require little watering or fertilizer. There are many different sizes and shapes to choose from.Smaller ones are often used as ground covers while larger ones can be used as ground cover while larger ones can be used as privacy hedges. Mid-sized varieties often make nice borders for landscape beds.

Warm season grasses start to grow vigorously  in the late spring  and early summer when things start to heat up. They tend to need less water  and are relatively low maintenance. Most flower in the late summer and fall. Here are  a few examples of more commonly used warm season ornamental grasses.

Molinia caerulea - Variegated moor grass - Green & white color. Part to full sun. Zone 5-9. Purple flower. 12-18"  tall and wide.

Panicum virgatum - Switch grass - Dark green color. Full sun. Zone 4-9. Pink flowers. 3' wide & 4-5' tall..

 

Pennisetum alopecuroides - Fountain grass - Green color. Full sun. Zone 5-9. White flower. 2-3' tall and wide. Needs regular watering.

Schizachyrium scoparium - Blue heaven -  Blue green color. Part sun/shade. Zone 3-8. Blue flowers. 2'wide & 4' tall.  Red color in the fall.

 

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